Iceland, September 2022
Day 1, Reykjavík, Iceland
Flight was slightly delayed out of Chicago but got in at 7:00 am local time (2CST). Saw a Costco on the way to the hotel. The city reminds me of an old European city and the hotel is exactly what I expected! Total population including surrounding suburbs: 300,000. Total population of Iceland: 375,000!
After dropping my bags at the hotel, I went on a Golden Circle Tour of the island. Started at Pingvellir National Park where the lake was so flat, we saw the fissures in the earth from plate tectonics movement, and crossed the line from North America to Europe.
Next went to Gullfoss Waterfall. It wasn’t Niagara Falls but it was still gorgeous. There weren’t any bad views. Then we went to Geysir Hot Springs where there were 17 geysers. Capped the tour off at a horse farm and seeing the Kerid Crater. My phone finally died and couldn’t get pictures of the last two places.
Unfortunately the Northern Lights tour was cancelled so instead I got dinner (Dirty Fries) and beers at a local restaurant called BrewDog!
Weather was a balmy 55F and perfect for the 15,000 steps I took. Tomorrow morning, early flight to Copenhagen, Denmark.
Edited to add: Once I was able to really appreciate the view this morning and before heading to the airport to go to Copenhagen, I got a few pictures of the city. So much to appreciate.
And before I forget RIP to Her majesty, Queen Elizabeth. My condolences to the family.
Day 2: Copenhagen, Denmark
I wish I had more time in Iceland but I had to fly out this morning to Copenhagen. Most of the day was traveling. Fortunately this is one of my few airplane transport because I’m really looking forward to watching the scenery go by and being in that moment.
So the pictures today are of my hotel and of the little walk I went on in downtown Copenhagen.
My hotel, is world class. All old brick but beautifully updated inside. My view out my room is of the harbor and check out my video for turning on the lights! It took my 15 minutes to figure out how to turn them on. Also, a view of the Copenhagen Opera House.
After cleaning up, I went for a walk and came upon the Amelianborg Royal Palace and Frederik’s Church. Saw the guards doing their walk routine and grabbed some pictures of the buildings which are beautiful. The streets look like something out of a Jason Bourne movie. Also discovered the portrait mode on my camera(!)
Dinner was at the hotel enjoying a local beer called Brooklyn IPA - it must be fate - and a chicken club sandwich.
Tomorrow, I’m doing a guided walking tour of Nyhavn and going to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek sculpture museum and the National Museum.
Day 3, Copenhagen, Denmark
What a day! It started at 9:30am with my private tour guide, Paul. We started at the Amelianborg Palace where the Queen of Denmark was in residence (note the flag with her crest flying high). She is the longest reigning monarchy in Europe now that Queen Elizabeth had passed. I did not know that had the Queen not passed, she was due to be in Copenhagen today! What a site that would have been.
From there, we walked to the train station, fully electric and so incredibly clean. We took the train to the harbor for a boat ride ( also fully electric) from one end of Copenhagen to the other.
While on the boat, we saw a ski hill on top of an incinerator(!), the Queen’s yacht, the Black Diamond - building where the water is reflected in its black granite, the Opera House (has a 5 level car garage underneath it!), the Danish theatre, Borsen, and so many other amazing sites.
After exiting the ferry, we went to the Christiansborg Palace, seat of the Danish parliament, caught a peak of the horse stables (from the 1700’s), walked through King’s Landing to Nyhavn, and to Amelianborg Palace and caught the changing of the guard.
After the tour ended, I had lunch at a beautiful outside garden and had fregola with prawns in a bisque and tomato garlic crème sauce. Afterwards I walked to the Ny Carlsberg Glyptotek Museum which housed the private collection of Carl Jacobsen’s art and sculpture collection. After leaving I proceeded to get lost in Copenhagen and found myself taking a break at a local pub that I’m sure I’ll see more of its kind in the coming weeks. I then walked through Christianshavn, a bohemian area of Copenhagen.
18,000+ steps later, a slice of pizza for dinner, and I called it a day. Exhausted but excited to see more of the city tomorrow before my “ferry” to Oslo.
Day 4: Copenhagen with ferry to Oslo
Last day In Copenhagen. Made the most of the day by getting up early, checking out of the hotel, and walking to the National Museum of Denmark. Four floors of remarkable artifacts related to the history of Denmark. Included was a fabulous display of the Passion of Christ, beautiful gold jewelry, and history of the colonies of Denmark. It culminated with an exhibit on the Vikings, going along for a 20 minute virtual raid led by Bjorn Ironside. I wish I had several more hours to see more of it.
On the way to the museum, I passed through Nyhavn again (marveled at the colors), saw the Former Denmark Trading Floor, went through open doors as my tour guide from yesterday encouraged me to do, and saw a police motorcade for the Queen of Denmark. Even as I walked I was truly amazed at the extent of the waterways here.
After gathering my things from the hotel, I went to the terminal where my ferry to Oslo awaited. This ride was the impetus for my entire route so I was really looking forward to it. There seemed to be a little confusion getting to the rooms but once that settled down, I went to the deck and grabbed some amazing pictures and had a few pre-dinner beers. For dinner, I had an amazing view of the sea. To start I had cream of cauliflower soup with cod and for dinner, I had a NY strip steak with frites. My eyes were bigger than my stomach because sadly, I left half of it on my plate. I spent the evening on the deck enjoying the sound of lapping water and the open sky. Thankfully I had my own cabin (I had not thought to ask about that) and am hoping for a good night’s sleep.
Tomorrow morning, I’ll be in Oslo, Norway.
Day 5: Oslo, Norway
Arrived in Oslo this morning via a 17 hour cruise ride. While being on the water was amazing, the rooms are small, the beds were not comfy, and the showers didn’t really contain water (I.e. it was all over the floor when I finished). I’m not sure I see another cruise in my future
Once I got here, I was fortunate to check in right away. I have a great view of the city from my room. I went out exploring and walked 12,000 steps. I walked Karl Johans Gate from Storyovet Square to the Royal Palace. I saw the Oslo Cathedral, the National Theatre of Oslo, Universitetsassen Square, Victoria Terrasse, the Parliament of Norway, and another changing of the guard. I also had McDonald’s for lunch and even here they can mess up orders
Sadly, my hike this evening to the Oslofjord was rained out but not to worry, I will see plenty of them in the coming days.
Tomorrow, I’m going to the National Museum of Oslo and the Edvard Munch Museum, and then a 6 hour train ride to Flam, Norway. The train ride should be one of the highlights of my trip.
Day 6, Oslo to Flam, Norway
The day started rainy and I was sleepy. I was tempted to stay in bed until checkout and be lazy. But I knew I couldn’t waste this opportunity and I am so incredibly glad that I didn’t.
I had a 10:00 reservation to the National Museum of Oslo. I took a taxi because of the rain, feeling disappointed in myself for not walking. But lucky for me, the taxi driver dropped me at the wrong place so I had to walk the distance. So glad I did. I ran into the Oslo City Hall and the Nobel Peace Center.
The National Museum houses an art, design, and architecture collection. A special exhibit called Piranesi and the Modern was stunning. The rest of the museum was one of the most beautifully designed spaces I’ve been to. It was two floors of more than 6500 pieces covering 3000 years of Norwegian art. Some of the highlights included the Queen of Norway’s coronation gown as well as a beautiful collections of pieces from the various Chinese dynasties. I was short on time but could have easily spent several more hours there.
I then walked over to the Edvard Munch Museum. On the way, I saw people jumping into the water (air temp 55F) and the Oslo Opera House. What a site!!!
The Munch Museum did not disappoint. I did the audio tour so I could get a sense of what Munch was thinking when painting much of his work. The pieces are spectacular and again I could have easily spent several more hours there but I had a train to catch.
I thought the highlight of my day may have been the Museums but I was in for a major surprise. I can easily see why the Flamsbana Railway is the most popular in all of Europe. I must have taken 200’s photos. The first five hours are from Oslo to Myrdal. In Myrdal, you get in the Flamsbana train and ride 20km on the most beautiful route I’ve ever seen. Worth every minute of my time!
I’d be remiss if i didn’t mention, the kid in a Sabres hat that grew up in Williamsville and the older couple sitting across from me eating hard boiled egg, tomatoe, Mayo, and caviar from a tube, on wheat bread sandwiches! I should have take pictures!
Upon arriving in Flam, I had dinner at a brewery and was pleasantly surprised to have a young man ask me to have dinner with him
Tomorrow, a fjord cruise and then a boat ride to Bergen. I can’t believe I am 1/2 through my trip. It has been nothing short of spectacular.
Day 7: Flam, Norway
Posting early because the morning Fjord Cruise deserves it own post. The two hour cruise goes through fjords which were described by my dinner date last night as “fingers of the sea”. The rain held off long enough for me to enjoy the entire cruise on the front deck of the ship. Cold and windy but stunning! Countless waterfalls, mountains reflecting in the still sea waters, and small towns nestled in seaside cliffs. At her arrival, I bought handknitted hat and gloves before boarding the shuttle back to Flåm, where I went to yet another museum, the local history museum. Artifacts in the museum were about the building of the rail line, an impressive feat! I had a local lunch while I wait for the boat to Bergen, another reason why I chose to spend 5 nights in Norway.
Day 8: Bergen, Norway
Edited: Fish market and tour of Bryggen
I arrived to this scenic harbor town last night via a five hour boat ride. I am sure I could have gotten here quicker another way but when in Rome… it was nearly 9:00 pm local time when I arrived and I wasn’t very hungry thanks to the tasty meal I ate on board the boat, a hot Belgian waffle and a Nestle Crunch Bar style ice cream cone! You may think I jest but it really was a fabulous pairing. So instead I stayed in, checked some emails, caught up with the family, and went to sleep.
My hotel is the old Bergen, Norway Stock exchange. It has beautiful architecture and it is located right in a square, near the Bergen Fish Market (have not been there yet).
Yesterday, I only walked a measly 6500 steps and felt guilty for not exploring when I arrived so today I set out to walk around Bergen. But first I had to find a laundromat. Despite the pouring rain, I made up for yesterday by walking the 2.5 miles to wash clothes that are needed for the next leg of my adventure, Ireland. If you didn’t recall, I did this trip with carry-on bags only! Thankfully I have made a friend in Norway and he is sharing helpful tips with me via WhatsApp. Carrying my bag full of clothes on the way to the laundromat, I ran into St John’s Church, part of the Church of Norway parish, built in 1891 by Herman Baker. It was stunning. I then ran into the Univeraity Museum of Bergen.
At the laundromat, I’ve run into my first currency issue. It is the first place they don’t accept American Visa and I never exchanged the USD I took out at the beginning of my trip. Fortunately the owners took my $40 USD and gave me back 150 Danish Krone. So I paid about $20 USD for two loads of clothes. Not really that bad.
After laundry, I have to decide if I want to walk back or take a cab but I have a three hour private tour of Bryggen, a trading center founded around 1070 AD. I am also visiting another museum. Hopefully the rain holds off so I can enjoy the day. But if not, as the French would say, C’est la Vie and let’s get wet!
I did indeed get wet during my tour. But the town is lovely. I passed through the fish market, saw the Hanseatic village, formerly occupied by Germans during WWII, went to Rosenkrantz castle, and visited the Bryggen Museum. It’s amazing how much the shoreline has changed since the early 1100’s!
Tomorrow, I’m off to Dublin to meet with a group and was the entire reason this adventure came to fruition.